The Kneeboarder's Redemption
In the ever-evolving world of surfing, alternative surf crafts have become a common sight, from mid-lengths to e-foils. But one often overlooked and misunderstood group is the kneeboarders. Yes, those 'weird units' who choose to ride the waves on their knees.
I, for one, have embraced the kneeboarder lifestyle, and let me tell you, it's a revelation. Picture this: a typical Sunday at a popular surf spot, a bustling hive of various surf crafts. Amidst this chaos, I, a self-proclaimed 'bi-kneelo', have found my niche.
The journey began as a response to the challenges of being a goofyfoot in a predominantly right-hand wave paradise. Frustrated with the limitations of my shortboard, I decided to experiment with a kneeboard. And what started as a mere curiosity soon became a passion.
The initial experience with a vintage Power Force kneeboard was underwhelming, to say the least. It bobbed like a cork, and the idea of getting vertical seemed like a distant dream. But then, on a fateful day in early June, everything changed. The conditions were perfect: no wind, a bubbling sea of mullet, and peeling pits off the point. I paddled out, and the session that followed was nothing short of life-changing.
The feeling of being wrapped in a wall of water, effortlessly gliding through the tube, was exhilarating. It was as if I had discovered a cheat code to the universe of surfing. The endorphin rush left me questioning my entire surfing journey up until that point. Was kneeboarding actually... good?
The answer, my friends, is a resounding yes! Kneeboarding offers a unique, immersive experience that traditional shortboarding often lacks. It's a full-body engagement, a dance with the wave, not just a flick of the feet. You become one with the ocean, feeling the rush of water next to your face, a sensation that's both thrilling and meditative.
The reaction from fellow surfers has been intriguing. Initially, I braced myself for the ridicule, the 'Kook', 'Cripple', or 'Half-man' comments. But surprisingly, the kneeboard seemed to break down barriers. People approached me with stories of their connections to kneeboarding, sharing a sense of camaraderie. The board became a conversation starter, a bridge to the past with tales of Crawford and Greenough, and a curiosity for the grommets.
The beauty of kneeboarding lies in its simplicity and the freedom it offers. It's faster than a boogie board, yet allows for the use of flippers, providing a unique advantage in challenging conditions. It's a style that demands respect, a testament to the fact that surfing is about more than just standing tall.
The perception of kneeboarders as old, weird, and gimp-like is a stereotype that needs busting. Kneeboarding is an art form, a choice, and a way of life for many. It's about embracing the wave, not just riding it.
In a world where surfing trends come and go, the kneeboarder stands tall (or kneels proudly). It's a subculture, a community, and a unique way of experiencing the ocean. So, the next time you see a kneeboarder, don't judge. Instead, appreciate the skill, the history, and the sheer joy of riding the waves in a way that's truly one-of-a-kind.
